A year ago, the industry was talking about "fashion's great reset", the moment when, as Wallpaper* put it, 15 new creative directors took their places at some of the best-known houses in the world. Those designers are now settling in. Yet the past six weeks have shown that the carousel has not stopped turning.
Here is what changed, and why it matters.
Saint Laurent: the end of a golden decade
On Friday 9 October, Saint Laurent announced the departure of Anthony Vaccarello, who had led the house's creative direction since 2016. The news, released by parent company Kering, confirmed what many in Paris had suspected after his Spring/Summer 2027 show.
That collection, staged beneath the Eiffel Tower and rendered almost entirely in gold, was widely read as a farewell. Wallpaper* reported that Vaccarello handed a set of "house keys" to his son at the end of the show, and quoted his own cryptic note: "A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held."
In Kering's statement, chief executive Luca de Meo thanked Vaccarello for his "creative vision and exacting standards", while Saint Laurent president and CEO Cedric Charbit said he had elevated the house "to the forefront of desirability and image". The house says it will "soon announce its new creative leadership".
Vaccarello's tenure was commercially formidable. W Magazine reported that, as of March 2025, he had built Saint Laurent into a US$3 billion business, and that, according to Puck, he has no new role lined up and plans to take time to consider his next step.
Who comes next?
Nothing has been confirmed. Both W and Wallpaper* reported industry speculation that Chemena Kamali, creative director of Chloé, is a leading candidate. W notes that she worked as women's design director under Vaccarello at Saint Laurent for seven years before joining Chloé in 2023. Should it happen, it would open another vacancy at Chloé. Until there is an announcement, treat it as rumour.
Armani looks beyond the family
On 16 September, the Armani Group appointed Dario Vitale creative director of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani Accessories, the first person outside the Armani family to hold the role. He joined with immediate effect.
"Armani has a powerful legacy and unmistakable design language," Vitale said in the group's announcement, describing his approach as one of "a deep sense of responsibility and excitement". CEO Giuseppe Marsocci called the appointment "an important milestone" that remains "faithful to Giorgio Armani's values and vision".
It is a notable second act. Wallpaper* recalls that Vitale's debut at Versace last September was followed by his exit after a single season, though that one collection has since gained a cult following. His successor at Versace, Pieter Mulier, joined from Alaïa; Vogue reported that Alaïa's Paris presentations this season were designed by the studio following his departure. Both Vitale's Emporio Armani and Mulier's Versace are among the debuts Wallpaper* expects next season.
New chapters in America
Two American labels have new leadership.
On 21 September, Lanvin Group named Humberto Leon creative director of St. John, the knitwear-led label with nearly 65 years of history. Leon co-founded Opening Ceremony with Carol Lim in 2002, and the pair were creative directors of Kenzo from 2011 to 2019. Most recently, according to the announcement, he oversaw the visual identity of global girl group KATSEYE.
Meanwhile, FashionNetwork reported on 30 September that Derek Lam is returning to Derek Lam 10 Crosby, the label he founded in 2011, following its acquisition by NYC Alliance in May. His first collection under the new ownership is scheduled for Fall 2027.
Further appointments to know
- ICICLE: The Chinese brand appointed Sabato De Sarno creative director across women's and men's ready-to-wear, accessories and eyewear, announced on 7 September, according to RetailBoss. His first collection is planned for Autumn/Winter 2027–28, with long-time womenswear design director Bénédicte Laloux remaining in her role.
- DoDo: Kering's jewellery brand promoted Isabella Novali, previously head of brand image, to creative director from 16 September, Something About Rocks reported.
- Courrèges and Carven: Vogue counted two debuts in Paris this season: Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven.
Why it matters
Creative director changes can feel like industry gossip, but they shape what eventually reaches our wardrobes. A new designer reinterprets a house's archive, its signatures and its silhouette, and the effect can last a decade, as Vaccarello's Saint Laurent proved.
For now, the most important thing to watch is Saint Laurent's next announcement. Few appointments in fashion carry as much weight, and whoever takes the keys will inherit one of the industry's richest archives.