Cuir de Russie, "Russian leather", was created by Ernest Beaux for Chanel in 1927. Chanel's history describes it as a new leather oriental fragrance evoking the saddlery of the equestrian world. Its name and its smoky trail refer to birch tar, which Russian soldiers used to waterproof their boots.
The Russian theme ran deep at Chanel in the 1920s. Beaux himself was born in Moscow, and Chanel's biographer Justine Picardie called the perfume the "bottled essence" of Chanel's romance with Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia, cousin of Tsar Nicholas II.
Wikipedia lists frankincense, juniper, mandarin, bergamot, rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang among its notes, over a leathery base of sandalwood and amber, and describes the perfume as meant for everyone regardless of gender. It was reissued in 2007 as part of Les Exclusifs de Chanel.