The Classic Flap is Karl Lagerfeld's version of the 2.55, the quilted chain-strap bag Gabrielle Chanel launched in February 1955. After the founder's death in 1971 and a quieter period for the house, Lagerfeld took over in 1983 and, as one of his first moves, reworked her bag. The changes were small but became defining. He threaded leather through the gold chain strap and replaced the 2.55's rectangular 'Mademoiselle' clasp with a turn-lock of two interlocking Cs.
The name '11.12' does not mean November 2012. As Vogue explains, it comes from the bag's style code, A01112, and Chanel itself has used 'Classic 11.12' in recent years. The bag is made in smooth lambskin, calf, pebbled calfskin known as 'caviar', square or chevron quilting, tweed and many seasonal materials. With the 2.55 it has remained among Chanel's best-selling bags. WWD reported in 2017 that the house rationed both 'because we don't want to overload the market with them'.