How to care for suede and nubuck

House advice from Chanel, Gucci and Tod’s on brushing, water and colour transfer, and the conservator note on erasers.

This guide repeats what the houses and conservators listed under Sources advise; it is not professional advice. Test anything on a hidden area first, and for valuable, damaged or exotic pieces use the house's own repair service or a professional conservator.

Suede and nubuck have a napped surface, and the houses treat them as more delicate than smooth leather.

Brushing

Chanel says to brush suede gently with a dry shoe sponge or a special suede cloth, smoothing the fibres in one direction.
Gucci's care note for its suede shoes says to clean with a soft, dry cloth or brush.
Tod's recommends a rubber brush for suede: brush the surface gently to remove dust and dirt.

Water and stains

Chanel says lamb and calf suede are particularly sensitive to liquids, stains and colour migration. For stains, it says to try fine-grit sandpaper first. If the suede gets wet, dab it dry with an absorbent, non-pilling cloth, and keep it away from heat and direct sunlight.
Gucci says to protect suede from direct light, heat and rain, and to dry it with a soft cloth straight away if it gets wet.

Colour transfer and chains

Chanel names suede and nubuck among the leathers most sensitive to colour transfer.
It also says suede and nubuck are particularly sensitive to marks from chains. Wrap straps and chains in tissue and store them inside the bag.

The conservator view

The Canadian Conservation Institute says suede should not be cleaned with powdered erasers, because the residue is very hard to remove. It says a moderately stiff brush can be used on suede in good condition.