How to care for a leather bag

Calfskin, lambskin and natural vegetable-tanned leather, as Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton advise, with the conservator view on creams and saddle soap.

This guide repeats what the houses and conservators listed under Sources advise; it is not professional advice. Test anything on a hidden area first, and for valuable, damaged or exotic pieces use the house's own repair service or a professional conservator.

The three houses agree on more than they differ: keep leather dry, out of strong light and away from products, and send serious cleaning back to the house.

What the houses say

Water. Hermès says that if leather gets wet, wipe it at once with a soft, lint-free cloth to stop stains and blisters forming. Chanel says to dab it dry with an absorbent, non-pilling cloth.
Light and heat. Hermès warns against long exposure to intense light and heat, such as direct sun, a window or a radiator, which may change the colour. Chanel also warns against long exposure to sunlight, artificial light and moisture.
Marks. Hermès lists ink, oily products such as make-up and lipstick, perfume and alcohol-based products as things that can leave permanent marks. It also warns that raw or dark textiles can mark lighter leather. Chanel gives the same warning about light and dark colours.
Products. Hermès says commercial care products are not suitable for its leather and recommends regular cleaning by its craftsmen. Chanel says to use a soft cloth and avoid care products that may degrade the finish. Louis Vuitton says its calfskin and cowhide can be compromised by any commercial cleaner, and recommends a soft cloth damped with water for surface stains.
Shape. All three say not to overfill the bag.

Lambskin

Chanel says its lambskin is treated as little as possible, so it needs particular care. Rubbing it gently in small circles can reduce the look of surface marks. Chanel names lambskin, along with metallic leather and fabrics such as tweed, as especially sensitive to friction at corners and edges, and to colour transfer.

Natural (vegetable-tanned) leather

Louis Vuitton's untreated natural leather (the vachetta trim on its canvas bags) darkens to an amber patina. If it is stained before the patina develops, the house says not to try to clean it: let it darken and the stain will become less visible. Blot water at once with a light-coloured, lint-free cloth. Avoid solvents, chemicals, mink oil, saddle soap and leather lotions.

The conservator view on creams and saddle soap

The Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI) no longer generally recommends leather dressings or saddle soap. It says:

Research shows dressings are generally not effective in preserving leather. Their oils can stiffen leather as they oxidise, darken the surface and attract dust.
Saddle soap is very alkaline, which degrades leather, and can leave a white deposit.

For dust, the CCI uses a soft brush. For light ground-in dirt on smooth leather in good condition, it uses a white vinyl eraser, testing first on a hidden area.

See also storage, Caviar vs lambskin and Togo vs Epsom.